- Why visit le Parc naturel régional de Brière
- About le Parc naturel régional de Brière
- Best places for seeing birds
- Videos
- So there you have it
- Resources
- How to get there
- Bookshop
- More ideas for birdwatching in winter in France
Why visit le Parc naturel régional de Brière
- Brière encompasses the second largest area of marshland in France – some 54,800-hectares recognised internationally for the diversity of its flora and fauna.
- Over 7,000 waterbirds were recorded in the nature reserve areas during the January 2024 International Wetland Bird Counts. Many more are found in the parc as a whole.
- it provides refuge for the largest concentration of harriers and grey herons in France
- There are three designated nature reserves within the parc
About le Parc naturel régional de Brière
Our journey south had taken us through several areas designated Parc Natural Regional. Basically, these were special land management zones (equivalent to British National Parks), where the aim was to ensure the safekeeping of the country’s natural heritage while permitting the development of compatible economic activities recreation, farming, non-polluting industry, environmental education, etc. Within these zones there may be areas of wildlife interest, eg the vast marshes and reedbeds of Brière, which were protected against drainage and other development, but where shooting was still allowed.
Brière encompasses the second largest area of marshland in France – some 547 sq km (212 sq miles) recognised internationally for the diversity of its flora and fauna. Until the 1950s, peat was harvested for fuel, and the reeds still provide the thatch for the 3000 or so traditional cottages in the area.
The basin containing the marsh was formed by earth movements that caused the underlying rocks to sink. Over millions of years, the sea has occasionally flooded the basin, laying down deposits of sediment. Then, about eleven million years ago, the basin was completely cut off from the sea by the formation of a littoral bar. The landscape has been subjected to human activities since Neolithic times – fishing, reed cutting, grazing and hay-making preventing the drier bits of land from becoming woodland. Instead, there is wet heath merging into boggy meadow. At the end of the summer, the fields are reputed to be blue with heath lobelia. Many birds are known to breed in the park, including bearded tit, Cetti’s, Savi’s and grasshopper warblers, bluethroat, garganey and bittern.
But this was winter, and the place was full of dull browns – vast areas of Phragmites cut by drainage channels and patches of willow scrub developing on drier ground. We stopped at a picnic site hoping to find footpaths or tracks, but with no luck. There were, however, some punts padlocked to their mooring and that form of transport could prove most interesting.
The place was deserted except for a few fishermen and hunters one hopes that in a place of this size, wildlife could find some refuge from such activities.
Marsh Harriers
Where there are reedbeds one expects to find marsh harriers, and Brière did not disappoint. There were up to four birds in view at a time and the show was almost continuous. Mostly they were brown birds – females and immatures – but there was at least one adult male. These birds were getting down to business – hunting.
As their name suggests, marsh harriers show a preference for shallow fresh or brackish water, fringed or extensively invaded by tall standing reeds Phragmites australis, reedmace Typha latifolia and other similar vegetation without too many trees. Brière must look like heaven to them.
The harriers quarter the reeds in a low leisurely flight, flapping steadily in today’s calm weather, but often just gliding slowly forwards when there is a strong wind. All the while they scan the herbage beneath for any sign of movement and, when a victim is located, the harrier checks its flight, sometimes almost somersaulting, before plunging vertically with legs out-stretched. We did not see them fly out of the reeds with prey, so presumably they consumed the victim immediately on the ground.
Twice we saw birds carrying vegetation. On the first occasion the vegetation was dropped as another bird approached and they called to each other; they came together several times, twisted and turned once or twice each time then parted. On the second occasion the same type of interaction continued for some time and the bird with the vegetation kept hold of it for longer. The birds often called when they were coming together, a shrill weak version of the courtship call. This out-of-season activity is thought to be play, or maybe young birds practising for next spring.
Other birds
A bearded reedling bounced out of the reeds and called attention to himself, others were heard but not seen. Two Cetti’s warblers had a dispute about fifty metres behind us, they shouted chewey-chewey-chew-chew at each other. In the fading light visual identification was impossible. Other distinctive sounds came from water rails – but you don’t expect to see them as they skulk through the reeds. Then there were the owls.
A variety of herons inhabit the parc, including the secretive bittern and, in summer, the night heron.
Other animals
Silhouettes of water voles crossed the channels, larger animals such as otters kept themselves hidden.
Introduced Coypu and crayfish are causing problems to the vegetation and the overall ecology of the area. But it’s still a wonderful place to visit – maybe in the summer next time!
There seems to be little information about wildlife in the parc in general, and a project is underway to redress this. People are encourage to add their sightings to make an atlas of biodiversity.
Best places for seeing birds
The three nature reserves
The Grands Charreaux and the Charreau de la Pendille natural reserves, situated at the heart of the marshes, are dedicated to nature preservation so they are not accessible. The Pierre Constant site is the only one open to visitors. None of these existed at the time of my visit, so this information is from various tourist websites.
If you’re interested in learning about Brière’s ecosystem, a guided walk at Rozé may fit the bill. Park near the lock, then walk 800 m with the Canal de Rozé on your right and the water meadows on your left. Access is free; only the guided tours need to be paid for. A panoramic terrace and several birdwatching stations are available for all visitors. And the Reserve’s visitors’ centre can lend you a pair of binoculars for the duration of your visit.
A few hundred metres from the Pierre Constant nature reserve, the new Rozé lookout stands 24 metres high and offers an exceptional panorama of the marshes.
Kerhinet and the Maison du Parc
Start your visit at the Maison du Parc (the visitor information centre) at Kerhinet which has information about the various local activities and highlights, as well as bike hire. Not surprisingly the surrounding terrain is very flat and cycling is very easy and an ideal way to explore.
The Maison du Parc is open all year except for a few days around Christmas and New Year. Kerhinet is situated just south-east of the D51 between Guerande and Saint-Lyphard, or west of the D47 between Pornichet and Saint-Lyphard.
Kerhinet itself is a carefully restored hamlet of thatched cottages and associated buildings such as a washhouse and bread oven which is very picturesque, so be sure to allow time to follow the route around the village before setting off to explore the surrounding countryside and to visit the small museum.
The cultural aspects of the parc naturel are highlighted more than the natural history. However, you can expect to see a variety of birds, dragonflies, butterflies, water plants, etc, depending on the time of year you visit.
Videos
These two videos from YouTube give a good idea of the Briere marshes in summer, showing it as a working landscape. There are some other videos on YouTube, with French commentary.
So there you have it
Don’t miss: spend an hour or two at dawn or dusk to soak in the sounds of the wetlands.
What I’d look for next time
- Go at a different time of year – to see butterflies, dragonflies and wildflowers and a different selection of birds
- Try some of the trails listed on the AllTrails website
- Explore the Pierre Constant nature reserve – it hadn’t been designated at the time of my visit.
Resources
Briere NP website in French, but Google will translate it – just be aware that it does strange things when translating common names of animals into English. Also provides links to local accommodation.
Birdwatching trails – Explore the ten most popular bird-watching trails in Brière Regional Natural Park with hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. If only this had been available at the time of my visit!
St Nazaire tourism – for more information and accommodation
All you need to know about the hunting season – hunting is a national pastime in France, and it’s often hard to get away from in winter. But rather than complain about it, it’s worth understanding something about how it works.
Hunting regulations – the more technical version.
Association for Protection of Wild Animals in French, but Google will translate it
Ligue pour la Protection des Oiseaux – RSPB equivalent. In French, but Google will translate it
How to get there
Public transport: St Nazaire is accessible by train or bus, eg from Paris
By air: the nearest airport is at Nantes
By car: the parc natural lies to the west of the E60
Once there, the best ways to explore are by bicycle, or by boat.
Bookshop
Click on book covers for more information.
More ideas for birdwatching in winter in France
Best places for wildlife in February
Updated 30/12/2023. Europe can be as fascinating for wildlife in winter as it is in the warmer months. Here are some ideas on the best places to go in February
Winter birds on the Gulf of Morbihan
The Golfe du Morbihan provides a huge feast for wintering waders and wildfowl. Here are a few suggestions for places to watch them.
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Nature-watching in Europe 
I’d enjoy visiting in spring to see the butterflies, dragonflies and wildflowers.
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Thanks for reading. I still hope to get there in spring or summer . . . one day . . .
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We will have to check out the marshlands in Briere on a visit to France. We would certainly be on the lookout for harriers and grey herons and to watch them hunt. Thanks for the tips on the best places to see birds. Our ornithologist daughter would want us to capture pics of every sighting.
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Thanks for reading. There are a whole load of wetlands along the French coast, and I hope one day to do another road trip to see them in spring or summer.
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