Category: Algarve

Best places for wildlife in March

Annie H2 Comments
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By March, Europe is noticeably warming up as the days get longer. It can still be pretty cold in the north, but that doesn’t stop the wildlife. Birds are migrating back to their breeding grounds, mammals are looking for mates or giving birth, and butterflies and wildflowers are brightening up the landscape, especially in the south.

Here are some ideas of places to visit, and things to see, based on where nature tour companies go. If you can’t travel on their dates, or prefer to explore by yourself, there will be plenty of similar places close to these where you can find your own wildlife experiences.

Disclaimer – I have no connections with these tour companies, and have not used their services. However, as their websites have provided me with useful information, the least I can do is mention them. Where possible, these are companies based in the country concerned. Many tour companies from other countries will use this local expertise.

  1. Bulgaria
  2. Cyprus
  3. Estonia
  4. France
  5. Greece
  6. Iceland
  7. Norway
  8. Poland
  9. Portugal
  10. Scotland
  11. Spain
  12. Other nature-watching in Europe calendars:

Bulgaria

Neophron – The Eastern part of the Rhodope Mountains is locked between the valleys of the big rivers Arda and Maritsa in southern Bulgaria, near the border with Greece. This area hosts exceptional biodiversity – a result of the mixture of Mediterranean and continental climate. This is the realm of the wolf packs, as here is one of the densest populations of the Wolf in Bulgaria. The most spectacular birds of the region in winter are the vultures – Eurasian Griffon and Eurasian Black vultures.

Wild Echo offers an opportunity to photograph predators from a luxurious hide in the west of Bulgaria. Best months are November to early March for the eagles –  we have adult and young birds almost everyday. Other species are raven, and sometimes buzzards, kestrel and occasionally passerines. There is also a Weasel living in front of the hide. Distance is between 26 to 36 meters from bird landing spots. Wolves have active and quite periods during the seasons, their unpredictable behavior makes it difficult to guarantee a success but so far it seems the best periods are September-October and March-May. So far we have recorded between 1 and 4 wolves in front of the hide, but reading the tracks we know there were up to 12 wolves in the immediate surroundings. 

Cyprus

Spring comes early in Cyprus, and by March most of the bulbs and annuals are in full flower, although some such as fragrant and tongue orchids are only just starting. The  Akamas peninsula in the north-west corner of Cyprus combines a beautiful and varied landscape, an interesting geology and a colourful and unique flora. Precipitous cliffs are to be found on the northern shores whilst the west coast has some of the finest beaches on the island, home to green and loggerhead sea turtles.

The island has long been recognized as an outstanding place to see migrants as they move through the Eastern Mediterranean basin, and one only has to look at its geographical location to see its obvious potential.  species such as pipits, wagtails, buntings and shrikes pass through in big numbers and it is also an excellent place to find Black Francolin. The beautiful Dhiarizos Valley, which runs north towards the foothills of the Troodos Mountains, holds several distinctive island subspecies of familiar birds such as Coal Tit, Jay and Short-toed Treecreeper.

These mountains are also a stronghold for breeding Long-legged Buzzard and Bonelli’s Eagle, and the Dhiarizos Valley itself provides a hunting ground for migrant Pallid Harrier and various other northbound migrants.  And then there are two endemic species: Cyprus Warbler and Cyprus Pied Wheatear.

Estonia

March is noticeably different to the preceding months. The days are lengthening, and there is more and more sunlight in the air melting the snow and ice. It’s also a busy time in nature for many mammal and bird species.  But be warned, temperatures can still get down to -10C at times.

For the Eurasian Lynx, March (and early April) is the mating season, and the time of year when it is most likely to be seen.   Individuals are more active and come to open areas much more often.  Estonia not only has the highest lynx population density – estimated at around 500 individuals – but also the largest specimens in the world.  Its main prey – Roe Deer – has also been doing well, fuelling a population increase. One of the best areas to spot them is Lahemaa National Park in the north-eastern part of the country.

Of course, there are other things to see – flying squirrels are a possibility in the Alutaguse region.  Tracks of wolves and other mammals are usually more obvious than the animals themselves.

The most important wintering area for Steller’s Eider, Europe’s most endangered seaduck, is off the coast of the biggest island, Saaremaa, where they are usually present from December to March. Long-tailed ducks should also be around in their thousands, sometimes coming into sheltered harbours where they can easily be photographed.  Saaremaa is also great for finding species such as Smew, White-tailed Eagle and wintering mixed flocks of both Taiga and Tundra Bean Geese

By the middle of March, forest birds are becoming more active.  For Western Capercaillie, Black Grouse, and Hazel Hen the lekking period is just starting and they are more visible. Owls are hooting to declare their territories and woodpeckers are drumming to declare theirs – seven woodpecker species are found here.

Natourest are the main ground agents/tour leaders here. They also provide information, routes and accommodation details for self-guided tours.

France

The estuaries and tidal wetlands of the west and north French coasts teem with birds migrating north, but there are also some inland sites worth visiting.

Migrant cranes and kites pass over the Dordogne in March, and smaller migrants are easier to see before the leaves burst on the trees.  The region is dominated by oak forests where you can you can find a variety of woodpeckers – black, green, middle spotted, great spotted and lesser spotted – as well as hawfinch, Dartford warbler, woodlark, firecrest, short-toed treecreeper and crested tit.  Mixed farmland supports rock sparrow, crested lark plus corn and cirl buntings.

The area is cut through by the River Dordogne and enclosed by impressive limestone cliffs, which may be home to an eagle owl or two. Scrubby hillsides, arable plains, heathlands and wetlands offer further diversity and collectively harbour a wide variety of species. Wallcreepers are relatively easy to find, often accompanied by Alpine accentor, raven, crag martin and peregrine.

There is a good chance of early butterflies, including the large tortoiseshell. (TravellingNaturalist)

Greece

The Peloponnese is the southern part of mainland Greece and it offers some wonderful wildlife experiences early in the spring, before better-known locations further north burst into life. March offers some of the best orchid displays in the region, as well hosting the vanguard of the northbound spring bird migration.

Islands such as Rhodes are bursting into life after a relatively mild eastern Mediterranean winter. The island’s varied habitats include montane and lowland, locations, lush meadows,  dry garrigue, and shady olive groves. This provides a wide variety of colourful and dramatic wildflowers for some exciting photographic opportunities, from delicate cyclamens to immense dragon arums, swathes of campanulas, fritillaries and hyacinths like Impressionist paintings, gorgeous endemic peonies, and myriads of orchids in all shapes, sizes, colours and forms. (Greenwings)

Iceland

Each year Iceland is locked firmly in an icy grip for several months, yet the start and end of winter – when the nights are not too long – are still great times to visit.  The chances of seeing the northern lights are good, so long as the skies are clear.

The unpredictable weather at this time of year may limit you to the south-west corner – the Golden Circle Tour’, unless you’re on a specialist guided trip.   Iceland’s unique geology and landscapes, such as geysers and the waterfall at Gullfoss, are fascinating to explore. But there are birds to be seen along the coast and on the many lakes –  numerous wildfowl including common eider, harlequin duck and Barrow’s goldeneye (above), as well as glaucous and Iceland gulls. 

Inland, the snowy wastes are enlivened by flocks of snow bunting, ptarmigan in their winter plumage; and, if fortunate, you may even encounter gyrfalcon, a white-tailed eagle or an Arctic fox in its white winter coat.  For the latter, best read this account first and take the advice to hire a local guide who knows the Arctic Fox territories.

There aren’t many mammals in Iceland at the best of times, but if the weather is kind, you can enjoy a whale-watching excursion to search for Killer Whales and other cetaceans.

Norway

Some 400km north of the Arctic Circle, the sun is now reappearing over the horizon every day,  There is still a covering of snow ice, but the Northern Lights turn the sky emerald green and purple on clear nights. 

The Varanger region of northern Norway is welcoming the first returning sea ducks from their wintering grounds to the south.  Common, King and Steller’s Eider, Long-tailed ducks, and even puffins, common and Brünnich’s guillemots and razorbills are all beginning their mating displays as they reconnect with their mates from previous years – pairing for life is common amongst seabird species.  Glaucous and Iceland gulls are found in the harbours.

On land, Arctic hares and rock ptarmigans hide amongst the snow-covered tundra, while white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, northern hawk owls and rough-legged buzzards attempt to find them.

Further south, in the more forested areas, there are Siberian tits, Siberian jays, and three-toed woodpeckers.

The days lengthen, providing time to enjoy the wildlife by daylight, and the northern lights by night – this often becomes more spectacular at the equinox (though nothing is guaranteed).

Poland

Trips to Poland in March seem to concentrate on mammals in the north-eastern corner, with a few birds thrown in here and there.

Bieszczady National Park is often said to be the best place for iconic mammals here include Bison, Wolf and the elusive Eurasian Lynx in winter. There are some special birds here too such as Hazel Grouse, Nutcracker and an array of owls and woodpeckers.

Most tours focuses on the large, yet elusive mammals of the Biebrza Marshes and Bialowieza Forest. Animals can be tracked in the snow –  European bison, wild boar, elk, red deer and, if you are really lucky, some of the country’s predators. There are also smaller, but equally fascinating species such as otter, beaver, red squirrel, pine marten and up to ten species of bat.

Mammal highlights in the Biebrza Marshes are likely to include elk, otter, beaver and a variety of hibernating bat species, with white-tailed eagle, rough-legged buzzard, goosander, smew and goldeneye amongst the avian possibilities.

Bialowieza Forest, is famed for its herds of European bison. Studying the many tracks and signs left in the snow give a fascinating insight into the forest’s most secretive inhabitants, including both Eurasian lynx and wolf. These species are notoriously difficult to locate, but, the more time you spend in the field, the greater the possibility of a sighting.

Portugal

The Algarve provides an easily accessible area for birds, butterflies and wildflowers in spring. Most of my visits have been between January and April:

Scotland

Early spring is a glorious time to enjoy the wildlife of the Scottish Highlands. Many of the resident species are beginning their breeding routines and summer migrants are starting to arrive. In particular, it is time to see the forest grouse lekking and aerial acrobatics of displaying raptors. This is also a time when coastal bays can hold extensive flocks of migrating wildfowl (such as the pink-footed geese above) and secluded bays and lochs resound to the haunting calls of displaying divers. Add to this the magical atmosphere of the tracts of native Caledonian forests, dramatic mountain vistas and wide open skies and the gushing waters of the mighty River Spey and its many tributaries for an unforgettable experience. (Oriolebirding).

Spain

Fuerteventura, with a glorious climate and direct flights from around the UK, is the perfect location for a week of ‘Go Slow’ birding. Our 7-night stay on the island is based at a very comfortable rural hotel in the north of the island, within 20km of most of the key locations, resulting in a relaxed pace to the tour and more time in the field to enjoy the birds and other wildlife that we find, work on our ID skills, and with less time spent travelling! 

Lying in the west of the Canary Islands archipelago, La Palma is a quiet and scenic island that enjoys a mild, moist climate, perfect for a retreat from the endless northern winter. Its delights lie in a soothing combination of spectacular landscapes – including a towering volcano, lava flows, forests and pounding ocean – and an eclectic parade of exciting animals and plants found only in this part of the world. The highlights range from the pigeon double act (Laurel Pigeon and Bolle’s Pigeon) to the remarkable endemic flora, found everywhere from remote mountainsides to the scrub next to the hotel. Equally, the surrounding ocean is superb for sea mammals and seabirds alike.

Extremadura, in west central Spain has a wild and beautiful countryside holding some of Europe’s most endangered birds. It is home to Europe’s strongest remaining population of great bustard, together with good numbers of little bustard, and both pin-tailed and black-bellied sandgrouse. A spectacular assemblage of raptors includes cinereous vulture, Spanish imperial eagle and black-shouldered kite. In the distinctive ‘dehesa’ habitat there are good numbers of Iberian magpies, while migrants passing through in spring include European bee-eater, woodchat shrike, western black-eared wheatear, great spotted cuckoo and European roller. White stork nests are ubiquitous throughout this picturesque region.

Andalucia in the south provides a wonderful early season retreat for botanists, not just along the coast, but further inland – the Natural Park of Sierra de Grazelema, the Sierra de Pinar and, a little to the south-east, the Sierra de las Nieves

In spring the marshes of the Doñana Natural Park attract an amazing variety of birds and offer one of the greatest ornithological spectacles on the continent – my first impression was that it was the largest village pond in the world. El Rocío, a village with sandy streets and white houses that overlooks the lagoon, provides a fine base from which to explore in detail the wide range of habitats in the region: the mosaic of marshes, Stone Pine woodland, open grassland and heathland, freshwater pools and coastal sand dunes. Tours within the more inaccessible reaches of the park are possible if you book well in advance.  There is a chance of lynx in the park, but possibly a greater chance (but more distant sightings) in the Sierra Morena, in the north of the province.

Brazo del Este Natural Area

If you’re staying somewhere between Malaga and Gibraltar, and you can’t get to the Doñana National Park on the other side of the river, then the Brazo del Este is the place to head for. A true oasis of wildlife surrounded by an agricultural desert – a desert in terms of wildlife.

Doñana National Park

How to get the most out of a visit to the Doñana National Park. My recommendations after several visits.

Las Marismas del Odiel

The Odiel Marshes Natures Reserve is the second largest wetland in Huelva province after Doñana, and the most important tidal wetland in Spain. Here’s how to make the best of a visit.

The Straits of Gibraltar – the narrow inlet between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean provides a spring migration extravaganza.  Thousands of raptors and storks heading north – though exactly which species you see will depend on the timing of your visit.  And if you are travelling independently, you need to be prepared to move between Gibraltar and Tarifa depending on the wind.  Also from Gibraltar, there are boat trips that will introduce you to its rich variety of marine-life. I saw Common, Striped, and Bottlenose Dolphins, but Long-finned Pilot Whales, are also resident in the area, and at this time of year you stand a good chance of encountering migrating Sperm and Fin Whales, not to mention seabirds such as Cory´s, Scopoli´s and Balearic Shearwaters, Great Skuas and European and Wilson’s Storm Petrels.

Other nature-watching in Europe calendars:

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Train on the Algarve

Bird-watching along the Algarve railway

Annie H14 Comments

The Algarve has a railway line that conveniently connects some excellent bird-watching sites. At least, they are good for bird-watching in winter, and for general wildlife and plants for most of the rest of the year.

We try, where possible, to take trips to places where there is good public transport to visit interesting sites. And while the Algarve Railway does not get us to ALL the good bird-watching sites, it provides enough to get through a two-week trip easily. If you have a bicycle, that will extend the distance you can cover easily from the train stations. And, of course, there are buses and taxis that will take you further.

Vila Real de Santo Antonio station

Situated at the very eastern end of the Algarve, this station gives access to the Guadiana River. Walking south, follow the road more or less alongside the river down to the break-water and navigation light at the entrance. This can be interesting in stormy weather with seabirds such as shearwaters and little terns passing close. Gulls follow fishing boats going in and out of the towns. At low tide there are often gulls and waders sitting out on sandbanks, or feeding in the silt.

The forest on the inland side of the road protects the town from sand blown in from the shore. It’s good for bird-watching – with crested tits, shrikes, gold and firecrests, among the attractions, and much more at migration time. The network of paths is used by athletes training at the nearby sporting complex, so expect to see a lot of joggers and cyclists too. You can meander through the forest, and/or along the beach and dunes, then end up at the station at Monte Gordo (it’s 1km north of the holiday village).

North of the Vila Real station is the traditional fishing harbour, which again provides options for viewing the river. Walk along the road on the north side of the tracks to overlook the saltmarsh and creeks of the Carrasqueira Creek. This is pretty good for waders at low tide, but anything can turn up at any time. On the west side of the main road, the creek broadens out and always holds water as it is more-or-less dammed by the road. Lots of coot – often hundreds in winter – along with grebes and other waterbirds spend the winter here. It’s also good for Caspian terns – I’ve seen one on most visits.

Flamingos at Castro Marim
Greater Flamingos at the Castro Marim reserve

Reserva Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim e Vila Real de Santo Antonio

The official title is quite a mouthful, so it’s often just referred to as the Castro Marim reserve. The Carrasqueira Creek forms the southern boundary to this huge area of saltpans – some commercially active, others abandoned. The reserve also includes saltmarsh, fishponds and muddy creeks, bordered by pasture and orchards, and the town of Castro Marim itself.

From Vila Real, follow the busy main road north towards Castro Marim. Then it’s a relief to turn onto a track going west past ruined farm buildings. This is really the only official public access through the reserve away from the road. It takes you past the active saltpans to a minor road on the other side where you can walk south to the Castro Marim station, or north to Castro Marim town. There can be huge numbers of birds here, including flamingos and black-winged stilts. However, if the weather is calm and the tide is out, a good proportion of the birds will be feeding out at sea or on the Rio Guadiana margins. If the weather has been wet, the track can be very slippery, and the salty silt surface sticks to your shoes.

The reserve continues north-east of Castro Marim, but access is more limited. A south-facing pasture near the village is a good place for stone curlews and Iberian hares. Black-winged stilts, black-tailed godwits, curlew sandpipers and other waders feed or roost in the saltpans. There is a reserve information centre not far from the bridge across the Guadiana, but it is not always open. We took a taxi here from Castro Marim, and walked back along a track next to stone-pine plantations.

See also Nature-watching in the Eastern Algarve for more details

Bird hovering in the Algarve
Black-shouldered kite hunting near Cabanas de Tavira

Conceição station

Conceição station serves the community of Cabanas de Tavira, which has a small holiday resort area next to the creeks at the eastern end of the Rio do Formosa Natural Park. You can walk through the town to reach the shore, and access the offshore sand-bars. Or you can follow the track eastwards on the south side of the railway line into the Tavira saltpans. The pans themselves hold large numbers of a variety of waders (shorebirds) in winter, and small birds such as bluethroats and Sardinian warblers occupy the scrubby areas. The tracks will take you eventually to the railway station at Porta Nova – about 5km by the shortest route, but it can take all day if you meander around the saltpans. The black-shouldered kite (above) was hunting over fields just north of the station.

Fuseta-A station

Easy access along roads/tracks by the saltmarsh and saltpans along the coast to the west. However, I have not explored this area yet.

Olhao - a good place for winter birdwatching via the Algarve Railway

Olhão station

Olhão is a town without any obvious nature interest, but follow the track 2km east of the station (all along paved roads) and you come to the headquarters of the Ria Formosa Natural Park at Quinta de Marim. An alternative route via back roads and past the harbour is do-able if you have a map of the town.

The quinta is described as a microcosm of the natural park, with pinewoods, saltpans, saltmarsh, grassland, a freshwater pond, and mudflats. In one corner, the animal hospital takes in injured birds for rehabilitation to the wild. A large building houses exhibitions and offices, while an old mill on the tidal embankments provides a reminder of life in the past.

We’ve seen 50-60 species of birds here on each of our visits, and in February-March a variety of plants and butterflies too. If you are very lucky (and we haven’t been, so far) you may see a chameleon hidden on a pine tree.

Faro Station

The broadest part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park is adjacent to Faro. You can overlook it from Faro Station, or follow paths either way along the shore. If the tide is out, birds can be difficult to see in the channels. The best time is when the tide is rising and pushing birds closer to the shore. Or as it falls and the birds move from their roosting places back out onto the mudflats.

Cormorants at Faro
Large flock of cormorants fishing at Faro

In January 2019, we watched a flock of about 350 cormorants moving out to feed. Those at the front of the flock landed on the water and dived, the next few landed ahead of these and dived, the pattern continuing as the first cormorants surfaced, took off, joined the crowd and flew to the front to repeat the process.

The stations between Faro and Portimao are further inland, and while there is probably some birding interest around them, they are not prime watching sites.

Portimao

The railway line runs past saltpans and saltmarsh near Portimao and Ferragudo, but I don’t know how accessible any of it is on foot/bicycle without being on very busy and fast roads.

small bird in the Algarve
Zitting cisticola – a commonly seen and heard little brown bird.

Mexilhoeira Grande Station

Probably my favourite walk in the Algarve is around the Quinta da Rocha peninsula in the Alvor estuary. From the station, you just follow the tracks westwards, alongside the western marshes, down to the saltpans, and up through the farmland, past the A Rocha environmental education centre at Cruzinha, and back to the station. You can expect to see 50-60 species of birds during a day here, with a few plants, butterflies and other critters even in January. Ospreys, Caspian Terns, Spoonbills, Zitting cisticolas (above), stonechats – just to give an idea of the range of species (and sizes).

Lagos Station

Upstream of the station you come to tidal marshes and old saltpans occupied by stilts and storks and other wildlife. Once you get away from the busy main road, it is quite pleasant. We spent some time in a small marshy area known as Paul de Lagos, listening to Cetti’s warblers, reed warblers, corn buntings, and watching marsh harriers, among many others.

Downstream, the road goes past the marina, and along the canalised river. Terns and cormorants are most common here, but in stormy weather there can be other seabirds. Continue along the road and through the town for about 4km to Ponta da Piedade for more birds and some spectacular coastal scenery.

Another route takes you along the beach (or through the valley behind the hotels) eastwards to Meia Praia station – and beyond that to a shallow lagoon just west of the Alvor Estuary, where we came across over a hundred Mediterranean Gulls feeding. Iberian magpies (below) are abundant in this general area.

Iberian magpie in flight

Lagos is the last station on the line, but a short walk into town will take you to the bus station where you can continue to Sagres and Cape St Vincent – the most south-westerly points of mainland Europe.

Bookshop

Over the last few years, local birdwatcher Goncalo Elias produced am excellent series of birding hotspot books, each covering a particular area of the Algarve. You can still buy these individual volumes, but they have now been combined into a single book.

Each chapter begins with a two-page introduction, which highlights some interesting birds that can be seen in each area and how the hotspots look like. After that, detailed information is provided for each hotspot: a brief description, a list of the most interesting birds that can be found there, and some suggestions on how it can be explored.

The original series certainly allowed us to find more sites and birds in each area than we had previously been aware of.

If there was a book like this for every area I visited, I’d be a very happy camper. It takes you through the year in fortnightly chunks, with information about plants, birds, invertebrates, places, etc, etc.

It is a general guide to the most obvious bits of natural history, so if you are a specialist in birds, or botany, or butterflies, you’ll need a specialist book for that, and this will help with everything else.

P.S. Buying books through these links brings me a small commission (at no extra cost to you) which helps with the costs of maintaining this website.

More nature-watching in the Algarve

Nature-watching in the Eastern Algarve

Annie HLeave a comment

Why the eastern Algarve – and where is it?

The eastern end of the Algarve in southern Portugal is the quiet end – away from the main tourist areas. However, it is also a good area for birdwatching in winter. The Castro Marim saltpans on the Spanish border are of international importance for wintering birds, as are the Tavira saltpans in the middle. At Olhao to the east of Faro is the headquarters and visitor centre of the Rio Formosa Natural Park and at Faro itself there are mudflats and saltmarsh, Add to this the woodlands, scrub and long sandy beaches – and what more could you want!

All in all, a great variety of habitats for plants, butterflies, other invertebrates and mammals as well as for birds. Even in January there is plenty to see, though the heat of the summer is to be avoided – even the wildlife doesn’t seem to like it much.

Monte Gordo is a typical small holiday resort almost on the Spanish border. It’s based on an old fishing village, and is surrounded on three sides by pine forest that were planted to stop the sand dunes engulfing the town of Vila Real de Santo António and the important salt pans to the north. It attracts a lot of Dutch visitors – evidenced by the number plates of cars and the names of some of the eateries. It also attracts a lot of fitness fanatics, providing a base for students, professional teams and others using the international sports facility in Vila Real. For us, it proved to be an excellent base for a week of nature-watching – without needing a car as the Algarve railway has a station there.

Tavira de Cabanas is another small holiday resort, just east of the very popular and busy city of Tavira. Again, easy access to the railway, the Tavira saltpans in easy walking distance, while the shore has the saltmarsh and sand bars of the Rio Formosa Natural Park. We were based here for a different trip.

View of the boardwalks and beach from our hotel window at Monte Gordo

Best sites for birdwatching in the Eastern Algarve

The beach at Monte Gordo

Pedestrian walkways – 3km of boardwalk opened in July 2017 – allows direct access to the car parks in the bathing areas, as well as to the beach cafes and facilities, while safeguarding the dune fronts along the beaches. (In theory – although a lot of damage seems to have been done in creating the boardwalks in the town area).  The beach continues in both directions from the town. 

To the east, we walked to the breakwater at the mouth of the Guadiana (the river that separates Portugal from Spain here).  There is rough road out to the end of the breakwater where you can watch gulls coming in with the fishing boats – not very exciting in calm weather.  But if it is stormy, then Balearic and Cory’s shearwaters, little and Sandwich terns, common scoter, razorbills, bonxies and various other seabirds are likely to be around.

From here, the road goes back to Vila Real (good for coffee shops) or you can walk back along tracks through the forest.

The way-marked forest trails provide shelter from the wind and sun, and there are plenty of birds to be heard and seen.

Mata Nacional da Dunas Litorais de Vila Real de Santo Antonio

The National Forest of the Coastal Dunes extends its 434 hectares from just west of Monte Gordo to the Guadiana River.  The forest was planted in the late nineteenth century to stabilise the dunes and prevent the offshore winds blowing them over the town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio.  Despite its human origins, it is considered to be a dune ecosystem of high importance, with several scarce/endemic plants.

The sandy soil is now covered almost exclusively by Maritime pine Pinus pinaster and some localized spots of Stone Pine Pinus pinea, which attract a variety of birds, especially during migration periods.  Some small lakes attract waterfowl, including grebes and ducks.

Vila Real is host to an international grade sporting complex.  The trails through the forest are well-used for both professional and pleasure jogging, walking and cycling.  The birds don’t seem to mind.  Crested tits, southern grey shrike, hoopoe, short-toed tree-creeper and many others live amongst the branches.  This is also the stronghold of the chameleon – most likely to be seen in autumn when the females come down from the trees to lay their eggs in the ground.

The Carrasqueira Creek – upstream of the road between Vila Real and Castro Marim

Esteiro da Carrasqueira (Carrasqueira estuary)

The Carrasqueira Creek or Estuary lies just north of Vila Real de Santo António, and is effectively the southern boundary of the Castro Marim reserve. The best observation points are just north of the railway crossing, where there is a car park on the west side, and a new road on the east side. The east side is tidal, and is good for waders (shorebirds) such as godwits, and plovers (including Kentish), feeding on the mudflats exposed at lost tide. The west side is effectively dammed, and the resulting lake is populated by large numbers of mallard, shovelers, coot and little grebes amongst many others. It’s one of the best places to see Caspian Terns in winter.

Walking west along the dirt tracks gives further (but not so good) views across the estuary. We walked back to Monte Gordo this way on several occasions.

Rio Guadiana at half tide from the breakwater of Vila Real Harbour. Waders feed on the mudflats. The suspension bridge crosses to Spain.

The harbour at Vila Real de Santo António

Follow the road east from the Carrasqueira viewpoint, and you’ll come to the harbour. This is the harbour used by fishermen and locals, as opposed to the marina for pleasure boats half a kilometre to the south. From the outer breakwater, you have views across the Guadiana to Spain. Any bit of mud exposed at low tide is likely to have birds on it. They often move to the sandbanks on the Spanish side, or into the salt pans, at high tide.

Overlooking saltpans and stone pine plantations from the castle at Castro Marim. Stone curlews can usually be seen in the pasture behind the saltpans.

Castro Marim Reserve

The Reserva Natural do Sapal de Castro Marim and Vila Real de Santo António is a Ramsar site (important for its bird life) and the main attraction for birdwatching in the eastern Algarve. Fortunately its name is usually reduced to the Castro Marim Reserve.

It is a large protected wetland reserve of some 2,000ha, on the west side of the Rio Guadiana.  It was established in 1975 to protect the natural environment and landscape. There is a good variety of habitats including productive and abandoned saltpans, saltmarsh, tidal creeks, seasonally flooded pastureland and the tidal shore of the Rio Guadiana.  Enclosing and bisecting the wetlands are grassy hills, dry scrubland, farmland and orchards that significantly increase the biodiversity of the reserve.

Great spotted cuckoo – parasitises the nests of azure-winged magpies

It’s a great place for birds, but most of the reserve is private land – public access is limited and the birds are often distant.  Having a telescope helps, but it’s not essential.  Non-breeding greater flamingos occur throughout the year, often in good numbers.  Egrets, herons, storks and spoonbills are present and in winter, good numbers of grebes, cormorants, duck and small numbers of geese.  Then there are waders (shorebirds), larks, warblers and wagtails, to mention just a few.  The sheer numbers of birds can be overwhelming.  Personal highlights include great spotted cuckoos (late February), Dartford warblers, Caspian terns, etc.  And it’s not just the birds.  My best views of Iberian hares were here, and there are plenty of flowers and butterflies too.

Sometimes you can be in the right place at the right time, eg for a cape hare to show itself. But the more time you spend there, the more likely you are to see something interesting.

There is an Information and Exhibition Centre with a viewing facility in the northeast of the reserve, and you can pick up an explanatory and access leaflet (available in several languages) – opening times are erratic.  However, it is a pleasant hike from Castro Marim village to the centre and back (only a short section on the busy main road).

Cerro do Bufo is the working saltpan area, just south of Castro Marim village.  There is a public track through here, though I don’t recommend it if the weather has been wet.  The fine silt on the track surface becomes slippery, and sticks to your shoes.  But on a dry day, it is quite pleasant.  Best visited at high tide as birds are forced off the nearby Guadiana estuary and out of the muddy channels, and feed in the saltpans instead.

If you are coming from further afield, it is worth taking the train to either Castro Marim station, or to Vila Real station. Walk the track, and then get the train back from the other station. This reduces the time on the roads and less interesting parts of the route.

Dunlin and sanderling were amongst the many waders at the Tavira Saltpans.

Tavira Saltpans

If you are staying at Tavira or Cabanas, these saltpans are on your doorstep. These are all currently working commercial saltpans, so the water and saline levels vary from pan to pan. Access is somewhat easier and more extensive than for the Castro Marim saltpans, and it is easy to spend a whole day wandering around the area. This site has more waders, especially black-winged stilts. If you are visiting by train, you need the station at Conceição. Work you way westwards on the dirt roads on the south side of the railway track.

Freshwater pool at Olhao, from the hide.

Rio Formosa Visitor Centre at Olhao

Perhaps not quite eastern Algarve, but easy to visit on a day trip by train from Vila Real or Tavira. It is 2km from the railway station, but there are buses or taxis if you don’t fancy the walk.

The visitor centre shows off the habitats and wildlife of the Rio Formosa Natural Reserve in miniature. It includes old saltpans, pine forest, a freshwater lake, a meadow, a bird hospital and a tidal mill (for history/culture buffs). The main building also has displays and information about the area. There is easy birdwatching here, and a chance to find chameleons.

Greater flamingos are a feature of many of the wetlands. Here at the Castro Marim marshes

So there you have it

My recommendations for getting the best birdwatching experiences during a winter trip to the Eastern Algarve. It’s an area I keep going back to, because it is easy to access and the weather is generally pleasant. However, good weather is not guaranteed, but as stormy weather can bring extra birds close to the coast, that doesn’t necessarily matter.

Books

Click on book covers for more information

book cover - Tavira

Two of a series of very useful books about birding hotspots in the Algarve.

They give details of what to see and how to get to tucked-away places we had missed on previous visits.

Like the other guides in the Crossbill series, this gives a lot of background information including all aspects of ecology of the region covered. It’s a very useful companion for the naturalist in the Algarve

There is a big scientific tome – two volumes of which have been published so far – about the flora of the Algarve.

Fortunately this volume is a reasonable size for the visitor interested in only the flowering plants. Most plants are illustrated, and I managed to identify virtually everything I found.

If there was a book like this for every area I visited, I’d be a very happy camper. It takes you through the year in fortnightly chunks, with information about plants, birds, invertebrates, places, etc, etc.

It is a general guide to the most obvious bits of natural history, so if you are a specialist in birds, or botany, or butterflies, you’ll need a specialist book for that, and this will help with everything else.

P.S. Buying books through these links brings me a small commission (at no extra cost to you) which helps with the costs of this website.

Black-winged stilt flying across a salt-pan at Castro Marim reserve

More nature-watching in the Algarve

Flamingos at Castro Marim

Summer in the Algarve is hot

Annie H2 Comments

Summer in the Algarve is hot – temperatures in the forties (Celsius) in the shade – and any breeze is welcome though even that is likely to come from the hot Sahara to the south. Very occasionally, it rains.

Early mornings can be cool, even overcast and grey. Carpenter bees and bumblebees buzz around whatever flowers they can find. Purple bugloss Echium plantagineum, thyme Thymus spp, wild carrot Daucus carota, sea daffodil Pancratium maritimum, Sea Hollies Eryngium spp to name a few. But most seem to have gone to seed, or shrivelled up in the heat.

Most of the butterflies are browns – meadow brown, wall brown, southern gatekeeper, speckled wood, skippers – species that depend on grasses for the caterpillar food plants. The occasional flash of colour from an Adonis blue, a swallowtail, or even a Bath white is welcome.

Birds, too, are best looked for in the early morning – before the heat haze turns them into misshapen ripples of colour in the distance. On the saltpans and estuaries waders are returning south – the first wave being those adults that have failed to breed successfully and are now going south without youngsters in tow. Another few weeks and the family groups will appear.

Dragonflies mass around the shrinking pools and diminishing streams. The narrow bodies of these colourful jewels can be surprisingly hard to see amongst the browning stems and leaves of plants.

European pond terrapins coast themselves with mud to prevent sunburn – and as the mud dries, the evaporation of water keeps them cool.

Daytime is siesta time – for wildlife as well as humans. Nothing wants to move if it doesn’t have to. Out on the sand dunes, the heat is accentuated by the fragrance of curry – from the yellow flowers of the curry plant Helichrysum italicum. Holes, burrows, houses, anywhere that provides shade is cool – comparatively speaking. Sandhill snails Theba pisana move up the stems of plants to aestivate (wait out the hot dry period) away from the heat of the ground.

Inland, there is still a variety of small birds skulking in the olive groves, citrus groves and wherever else they can find shade and food. Finches appear magically as the heat goes out of the day, to feed on grass and thistle seeds. At dusk nightjars and owls still call in defence of their breeding territories.

Yes, Summer in the Algarve is hot. Very hot. And it’s probably best left to the tourists.

If there was a book like this for every area I visited, I’d be a very happy camper. It takes you through the year in fortnightly chunks, with information about plants, birds, invertebrates, places, etc, etc.

It is a general guide to the most obvious bits of natural history, so if you are a specialist in birds, or botany, or butterflies, you’ll need a specialist book for that, and this will help with everything else.

More nature-watching in the Algarve