Category: Bulgaria

photo of the sun rising over a lake

Planning for Bulgaria

Annie H2 Comments

There isn’t a right or wrong way to plan a trip.  It depends on the funds, the time available, your interests, perhaps family commitments, but mostly on your character.  I’d love to go back to the days when I could walk out the door and just go wherever the wind blows. 

But those days are over, my other half likes things planned, paid for, knowing what it going to happen when.  And he likes his home comforts – our campervan sits in the driveway, mostly doing nothing, but occasionally getting short trips to pre-booked campsites in the UK. 

As I get older, I’m beginning to agree with him.

So, how do we plan a trip now.

Our interests lie in natural history.  Birds, butterflies, botany, hiking in interesting places, and taking photos. Effectively, that means mainly birds in winter, and everything else when we can fit it in.

We aim for self-catering accommodation with access to public transport and places to walk and watch wildlife.  The Algarve is ideal.  Lanzarote worked well, as do some parts of mainland Spain. 

Lanzarote walking

Walking from Peurto del Carmen to the Playa Quemada with views of the Monumento Natural de Los Ajaches.

It is often difficult to find information about other areas – especially the public transport part.  Of course, we could hire a car, as most people do.  But then we’d have the extra stress of driving on, what is to us, the ‘wrong’ side of the road.  We have, at times, found ourselves staying in the middle of a busy holiday resort – definitely not somewhere we’d want to be driving.  And if there is a language problem, it can be even more complicated.  So, we have to plan differently.

Eastern Bulgaria – the Black Sea Coast – is such an area.  Not only is the language different to the Germanic and Latin languages of western Europe, but the alphabet is different.  You can’t just look at a word and get a vague idea of what it means.  I’d travelled through the old Yugoslavia and Greece back in 1989, and learnt the sounds of some of the Cyrillic letters just by the road signs that had place names in both alphabets.  But that was a long time ago and it takes some practice for the sounds to come easily.

Public transport?  It exists, but not necessarily going to the sort of places we are interested in visiting.

There were organised natural history trips to the area, but we were persuaded to try one of these to Poland a few years ago, and realised that they were not for us.  We like to have time to watch birds, look for butterflies and plants, to take photos, to walk, etc.

And then there is the problem of food – eating in different places when you have specific dietary requirements (even a simple dietary requirement of low fat for gallstone problems) and trying to make the most suitable choice from a menu – if indeed, there is a menu at all.  Hence a preference for self-catering accommodation.

Red-breasted Geese in flight

Getting down to it

But Eastern Bulgaria still looked interesting.  It is the only place in Europe for Red-breasted Geese in winter – they breed in Siberia.  There were likely to be a few other species we hadn’t seen before, or at least hadn’t photographed.  So how to solve the problem.

Amongst all the literature (paper brochures collected at Birdwatching Fairs over the years, adverts in wildlife magazines, as well as information from the internet) I found the Branta Birding Lodge right next to the red-breasted geese wintering grounds.  The birds are only there in January and February, and in January they are much disturbed by hunters.  Hunting officially ends at the end of January, and the birds start to settle down.  It was now early January, could we stay there in February?

An exchange of emails with the owner, Pavel Simeonov, said yes.  He would meet us at Varna Airport, be our guide for the time we were there, his rates included accommodation, food, guiding, a trip to the Danube Delta, and a couple of days based near Burgas at the south end of the Black Sea Coast.  Although his website suggested a seven-night itinerary, I asked to extend that to nine nights – no problem as he had no-one else booked in after us. (The top photo shows the sunrise from the lodge)

This is how we had organised our trips to Nepal and Sri Lanka 20 and 15 years ago – using local ground agents rather than organised tours meant we could be more flexible, say where we wanted to go, and how long to stay there.

Transport

With the accommodation etc sorted, the next problem was transport.  There are some direct flights to Varna, on the Black Sea coast, operated in winter by WizzAir.  They flew from London City or Liverpool, and arrived in Varna in the early hours of the morning – not very convenient.  We knew nothing about WizzAir, except that they had just pulled out of using Cardiff Airport.  Did that mean they were risky?  We had just avoided being stuck when another airline collapsed a few years ago, and didn’t want to take such chances.

A bit more googling showed that there were all sorts of routes available, often via a strange combination of airports, and often cheap.  But did we really want to change airlines en route with the attendant risk of losing luggage?  Then I discovered that SwissAir went to Varna via Vienna, leaving Heathrow at 6am (not much fun) but arriving and leaving Varna at more convenient times. That was that flights sorted.

But Heathrow is still several hours travel from home.  We could drive there and leave the car at the hotel or airport parking.  Or we could take the train.  Given the recent rail staff strikes, I wasn’t sure the train was a good idea, but Bob disagreed.  So, we went to the nearest train station where we could get tickets in person – and came away with Senior Citizen railcards, and seat reservations, as well as a personalised printed timetable that showed when we would be on the train, and when we would be using a bus replacement service due to work on the rails.  We’ll have to use the train at least once more this year to get the full benefit of the railcard reductions.

Almost done.  We booked a Premier Inn at Heathrow for a short night before the flight, and a taxi for the airport – the hotel hoppa buses didn’t start until 4am, and we were supposed to be at the terminal to check-in by then.

That leaves packing.

I’m a pretty minimalist packer.  Basically, just enough clothes to last the duration, plus one complete change in case of a soaking.  A basic toiletry kit.  A pair of indoor shoes of some kind (slippers this time) and a set of waterproofs.  Bulgaria is supposed to be quite cold in winter – snow across most of the country, but not so bad on the Black Sea coast.  So we made sure we had clothes for cold weather.  But how cold?  Pavel had mentioned that the winter had so far been very mild – up to 20C – and the red-fronted geese had not arrived, he would take us north into Romania to see them.  Hmm, perhaps not too cold.  Then two days before we left – 300 Red-breasted Geese just arrived with the cold weather. Hopefully they will stay until your arrival.  OK, perhaps very cold.  We added wellies and insulated snow pants, just in case.  It was the first time I’d ever had to sit on my suitcase to close it.

As it turned out, the cold weather meant a couple of days of snow that was more or less gone by the time we arrived.  The lake was still iced over, and there were cold northerly winds.  But we did not actually need or use that extra clothing.  But as I hate being cold, it was worth being prepared.  The geese stayed around for a week or so, and we did not go to Romania.

As I said earlier, we like to take photos, and photographing birds requires long lenses and heavy cameras.  For a winter trip with birds as the main focus, I took one camera with a long lens (Nikon Z6ii with Nikon 100-400mm lens), and one small camera (Fuji X100V) for scenery, and any flowers that might be showing.  There was no point in including everything for close-ups of flowers and insects.  Bob took more equipment, including an even longer lens, than I did. I’d like to have taken a tripod and sound recording equipment to make some videos, but that would have meant more weight and more bulk (and anyway, I’ve tried it before and not had a decent opportunity to use the equipment).

Fitting the equipment into a bag that is within cabin baggage requirements is often a bit tricky.  SwissAir said 55x40x22cm.  We had only one camera bag that was within the 22cm, so Bob bought yet another new one.  By the time we had added our laptops and binoculars, the weight was just below the 8kg limit for each of us. 

Snow on the frozen edges of Durankulak Lake. The Black Sea itself was not frozen.

Language

Back to that language ‘problem’.  With Pavel and his wife Tatyana (the all-important cook and housekeeper) speaking good English, it wasn’t going to be a problem.  But, as always, I tried to learn a few words/phrases. 

Thank you – Merci – yes, they really do use the French word and it is simpler than the Bulgarian phrase (Благодаря ти Blagodarya ti).  Goodbye – Ciao – yes, the Italian word. 

Then there was hello (Здрасти, Zdrasti), yes (Да, Da), no (He, Ne), Okay (Добре, Dobre), and please (Моля, Molya)

But I never did master the Bulgarian habit of nodding the head to say no, and shaking it to say yes!

Afterwards

Well, we survived the trip, all the travel went smoothly, except for the one thing I hadn’t booked in advance. A few days before we left Bulgaria, I tried to book a hotel at Heathrow. I tried several times, got a sorry-something-has-gone-wrong-please-try-again-later message, and eventually gave up. Same response when we arrived at Heathrow. Bob was back in worrying mode, but we went to the hotel anyway. They told us to try booking again, as they still had a room, and this time it did work. I still don’t know what the problem was, but I guess it served me right for not doing the whole job properly to start with.

We came back home to what seemed like colder weather than we’d had in Bulgaria.  Now, it’s time to look through the thousands of photos, and the hastily scribbled notes, and get the trip stories written down before they are forgotten.

More winter bird-watching ideas

Eurasian Cranes at the Laguna Gallocanta

The Laguna Gallocanta near Zaragoza in north-eastern Spain provides an incredible spectacle in late February as thousands of cranes stop by on the way to northern European breeding grounds.

Doñana National Park

How to get the most out of a visit to the Doñana National Park. My recommendations after several visits.

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Best places for wildlife in March

Annie H2 Comments
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By March, Europe is noticeably warming up as the days get longer. It can still be pretty cold in the north, but that doesn’t stop the wildlife. Birds are migrating back to their breeding grounds, mammals are looking for mates or giving birth, and butterflies and wildflowers are brightening up the landscape, especially in the south.

Here are some ideas of places to visit, and things to see, based on where nature tour companies go. If you can’t travel on their dates, or prefer to explore by yourself, there will be plenty of similar places close to these where you can find your own wildlife experiences.

Disclaimer – I have no connections with these tour companies, and have not used their services. However, as their websites have provided me with useful information, the least I can do is mention them. Where possible, these are companies based in the country concerned. Many tour companies from other countries will use this local expertise.

  1. Bulgaria
  2. Cyprus
  3. Estonia
  4. France
  5. Greece
  6. Iceland
  7. Norway
  8. Poland
  9. Portugal
  10. Scotland
  11. Spain
  12. Other nature-watching in Europe calendars:

Bulgaria

Neophron – The Eastern part of the Rhodope Mountains is locked between the valleys of the big rivers Arda and Maritsa in southern Bulgaria, near the border with Greece. This area hosts exceptional biodiversity – a result of the mixture of Mediterranean and continental climate. This is the realm of the wolf packs, as here is one of the densest populations of the Wolf in Bulgaria. The most spectacular birds of the region in winter are the vultures – Eurasian Griffon and Eurasian Black vultures.

Wild Echo offers an opportunity to photograph predators from a luxurious hide in the west of Bulgaria. Best months are November to early March for the eagles –  we have adult and young birds almost everyday. Other species are raven, and sometimes buzzards, kestrel and occasionally passerines. There is also a Weasel living in front of the hide. Distance is between 26 to 36 meters from bird landing spots. Wolves have active and quite periods during the seasons, their unpredictable behavior makes it difficult to guarantee a success but so far it seems the best periods are September-October and March-May. So far we have recorded between 1 and 4 wolves in front of the hide, but reading the tracks we know there were up to 12 wolves in the immediate surroundings. 

Cyprus

Spring comes early in Cyprus, and by March most of the bulbs and annuals are in full flower, although some such as fragrant and tongue orchids are only just starting. The  Akamas peninsula in the north-west corner of Cyprus combines a beautiful and varied landscape, an interesting geology and a colourful and unique flora. Precipitous cliffs are to be found on the northern shores whilst the west coast has some of the finest beaches on the island, home to green and loggerhead sea turtles.

The island has long been recognized as an outstanding place to see migrants as they move through the Eastern Mediterranean basin, and one only has to look at its geographical location to see its obvious potential.  species such as pipits, wagtails, buntings and shrikes pass through in big numbers and it is also an excellent place to find Black Francolin. The beautiful Dhiarizos Valley, which runs north towards the foothills of the Troodos Mountains, holds several distinctive island subspecies of familiar birds such as Coal Tit, Jay and Short-toed Treecreeper.

These mountains are also a stronghold for breeding Long-legged Buzzard and Bonelli’s Eagle, and the Dhiarizos Valley itself provides a hunting ground for migrant Pallid Harrier and various other northbound migrants.  And then there are two endemic species: Cyprus Warbler and Cyprus Pied Wheatear.

Estonia

March is noticeably different to the preceding months. The days are lengthening, and there is more and more sunlight in the air melting the snow and ice. It’s also a busy time in nature for many mammal and bird species.  But be warned, temperatures can still get down to -10C at times.

For the Eurasian Lynx, March (and early April) is the mating season, and the time of year when it is most likely to be seen.   Individuals are more active and come to open areas much more often.  Estonia not only has the highest lynx population density – estimated at around 500 individuals – but also the largest specimens in the world.  Its main prey – Roe Deer – has also been doing well, fuelling a population increase. One of the best areas to spot them is Lahemaa National Park in the north-eastern part of the country.

Of course, there are other things to see – flying squirrels are a possibility in the Alutaguse region.  Tracks of wolves and other mammals are usually more obvious than the animals themselves.

The most important wintering area for Steller’s Eider, Europe’s most endangered seaduck, is off the coast of the biggest island, Saaremaa, where they are usually present from December to March. Long-tailed ducks should also be around in their thousands, sometimes coming into sheltered harbours where they can easily be photographed.  Saaremaa is also great for finding species such as Smew, White-tailed Eagle and wintering mixed flocks of both Taiga and Tundra Bean Geese

By the middle of March, forest birds are becoming more active.  For Western Capercaillie, Black Grouse, and Hazel Hen the lekking period is just starting and they are more visible. Owls are hooting to declare their territories and woodpeckers are drumming to declare theirs – seven woodpecker species are found here.

Natourest are the main ground agents/tour leaders here. They also provide information, routes and accommodation details for self-guided tours.

France

The estuaries and tidal wetlands of the west and north French coasts teem with birds migrating north, but there are also some inland sites worth visiting.

Migrant cranes and kites pass over the Dordogne in March, and smaller migrants are easier to see before the leaves burst on the trees.  The region is dominated by oak forests where you can you can find a variety of woodpeckers – black, green, middle spotted, great spotted and lesser spotted – as well as hawfinch, Dartford warbler, woodlark, firecrest, short-toed treecreeper and crested tit.  Mixed farmland supports rock sparrow, crested lark plus corn and cirl buntings.

The area is cut through by the River Dordogne and enclosed by impressive limestone cliffs, which may be home to an eagle owl or two. Scrubby hillsides, arable plains, heathlands and wetlands offer further diversity and collectively harbour a wide variety of species. Wallcreepers are relatively easy to find, often accompanied by Alpine accentor, raven, crag martin and peregrine.

There is a good chance of early butterflies, including the large tortoiseshell. (TravellingNaturalist)

Greece

The Peloponnese is the southern part of mainland Greece and it offers some wonderful wildlife experiences early in the spring, before better-known locations further north burst into life. March offers some of the best orchid displays in the region, as well hosting the vanguard of the northbound spring bird migration.

Islands such as Rhodes are bursting into life after a relatively mild eastern Mediterranean winter. The island’s varied habitats include montane and lowland, locations, lush meadows,  dry garrigue, and shady olive groves. This provides a wide variety of colourful and dramatic wildflowers for some exciting photographic opportunities, from delicate cyclamens to immense dragon arums, swathes of campanulas, fritillaries and hyacinths like Impressionist paintings, gorgeous endemic peonies, and myriads of orchids in all shapes, sizes, colours and forms. (Greenwings)

Iceland

Each year Iceland is locked firmly in an icy grip for several months, yet the start and end of winter – when the nights are not too long – are still great times to visit.  The chances of seeing the northern lights are good, so long as the skies are clear.

The unpredictable weather at this time of year may limit you to the south-west corner – the Golden Circle Tour’, unless you’re on a specialist guided trip.   Iceland’s unique geology and landscapes, such as geysers and the waterfall at Gullfoss, are fascinating to explore. But there are birds to be seen along the coast and on the many lakes –  numerous wildfowl including common eider, harlequin duck and Barrow’s goldeneye (above), as well as glaucous and Iceland gulls. 

Inland, the snowy wastes are enlivened by flocks of snow bunting, ptarmigan in their winter plumage; and, if fortunate, you may even encounter gyrfalcon, a white-tailed eagle or an Arctic fox in its white winter coat.  For the latter, best read this account first and take the advice to hire a local guide who knows the Arctic Fox territories.

There aren’t many mammals in Iceland at the best of times, but if the weather is kind, you can enjoy a whale-watching excursion to search for Killer Whales and other cetaceans.

Norway

Some 400km north of the Arctic Circle, the sun is now reappearing over the horizon every day,  There is still a covering of snow ice, but the Northern Lights turn the sky emerald green and purple on clear nights. 

The Varanger region of northern Norway is welcoming the first returning sea ducks from their wintering grounds to the south.  Common, King and Steller’s Eider, Long-tailed ducks, and even puffins, common and Brünnich’s guillemots and razorbills are all beginning their mating displays as they reconnect with their mates from previous years – pairing for life is common amongst seabird species.  Glaucous and Iceland gulls are found in the harbours.

On land, Arctic hares and rock ptarmigans hide amongst the snow-covered tundra, while white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, northern hawk owls and rough-legged buzzards attempt to find them.

Further south, in the more forested areas, there are Siberian tits, Siberian jays, and three-toed woodpeckers.

The days lengthen, providing time to enjoy the wildlife by daylight, and the northern lights by night – this often becomes more spectacular at the equinox (though nothing is guaranteed).

Poland

Trips to Poland in March seem to concentrate on mammals in the north-eastern corner, with a few birds thrown in here and there.

Bieszczady National Park is often said to be the best place for iconic mammals here include Bison, Wolf and the elusive Eurasian Lynx in winter. There are some special birds here too such as Hazel Grouse, Nutcracker and an array of owls and woodpeckers.

Most tours focuses on the large, yet elusive mammals of the Biebrza Marshes and Bialowieza Forest. Animals can be tracked in the snow –  European bison, wild boar, elk, red deer and, if you are really lucky, some of the country’s predators. There are also smaller, but equally fascinating species such as otter, beaver, red squirrel, pine marten and up to ten species of bat.

Mammal highlights in the Biebrza Marshes are likely to include elk, otter, beaver and a variety of hibernating bat species, with white-tailed eagle, rough-legged buzzard, goosander, smew and goldeneye amongst the avian possibilities.

Bialowieza Forest, is famed for its herds of European bison. Studying the many tracks and signs left in the snow give a fascinating insight into the forest’s most secretive inhabitants, including both Eurasian lynx and wolf. These species are notoriously difficult to locate, but, the more time you spend in the field, the greater the possibility of a sighting.

Portugal

The Algarve provides an easily accessible area for birds, butterflies and wildflowers in spring. Most of my visits have been between January and April:

Scotland

Early spring is a glorious time to enjoy the wildlife of the Scottish Highlands. Many of the resident species are beginning their breeding routines and summer migrants are starting to arrive. In particular, it is time to see the forest grouse lekking and aerial acrobatics of displaying raptors. This is also a time when coastal bays can hold extensive flocks of migrating wildfowl (such as the pink-footed geese above) and secluded bays and lochs resound to the haunting calls of displaying divers. Add to this the magical atmosphere of the tracts of native Caledonian forests, dramatic mountain vistas and wide open skies and the gushing waters of the mighty River Spey and its many tributaries for an unforgettable experience. (Oriolebirding).

Spain

Fuerteventura, with a glorious climate and direct flights from around the UK, is the perfect location for a week of ‘Go Slow’ birding. Our 7-night stay on the island is based at a very comfortable rural hotel in the north of the island, within 20km of most of the key locations, resulting in a relaxed pace to the tour and more time in the field to enjoy the birds and other wildlife that we find, work on our ID skills, and with less time spent travelling! 

Lying in the west of the Canary Islands archipelago, La Palma is a quiet and scenic island that enjoys a mild, moist climate, perfect for a retreat from the endless northern winter. Its delights lie in a soothing combination of spectacular landscapes – including a towering volcano, lava flows, forests and pounding ocean – and an eclectic parade of exciting animals and plants found only in this part of the world. The highlights range from the pigeon double act (Laurel Pigeon and Bolle’s Pigeon) to the remarkable endemic flora, found everywhere from remote mountainsides to the scrub next to the hotel. Equally, the surrounding ocean is superb for sea mammals and seabirds alike.

Extremadura, in west central Spain has a wild and beautiful countryside holding some of Europe’s most endangered birds. It is home to Europe’s strongest remaining population of great bustard, together with good numbers of little bustard, and both pin-tailed and black-bellied sandgrouse. A spectacular assemblage of raptors includes cinereous vulture, Spanish imperial eagle and black-shouldered kite. In the distinctive ‘dehesa’ habitat there are good numbers of Iberian magpies, while migrants passing through in spring include European bee-eater, woodchat shrike, western black-eared wheatear, great spotted cuckoo and European roller. White stork nests are ubiquitous throughout this picturesque region.

Andalucia in the south provides a wonderful early season retreat for botanists, not just along the coast, but further inland – the Natural Park of Sierra de Grazelema, the Sierra de Pinar and, a little to the south-east, the Sierra de las Nieves

In spring the marshes of the Doñana Natural Park attract an amazing variety of birds and offer one of the greatest ornithological spectacles on the continent – my first impression was that it was the largest village pond in the world. El Rocío, a village with sandy streets and white houses that overlooks the lagoon, provides a fine base from which to explore in detail the wide range of habitats in the region: the mosaic of marshes, Stone Pine woodland, open grassland and heathland, freshwater pools and coastal sand dunes. Tours within the more inaccessible reaches of the park are possible if you book well in advance.  There is a chance of lynx in the park, but possibly a greater chance (but more distant sightings) in the Sierra Morena, in the north of the province.

Brazo del Este Natural Area

If you’re staying somewhere between Malaga and Gibraltar, and you can’t get to the Doñana National Park on the other side of the river, then the Brazo del Este is the place to head for. A true oasis of wildlife surrounded by an agricultural desert – a desert in terms of wildlife.

Las Marismas del Odiel

The Odiel Marshes Natures Reserve is the second largest wetland in Huelva province after Doñana, and the most important tidal wetland in Spain. Here’s how to make the best of a visit.

The Straits of Gibraltar – the narrow inlet between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean provides a spring migration extravaganza.  Thousands of raptors and storks heading north – though exactly which species you see will depend on the timing of your visit.  And if you are travelling independently, you need to be prepared to move between Gibraltar and Tarifa depending on the wind.  Also from Gibraltar, there are boat trips that will introduce you to its rich variety of marine-life. I saw Common, Striped, and Bottlenose Dolphins, but Long-finned Pilot Whales, are also resident in the area, and at this time of year you stand a good chance of encountering migrating Sperm and Fin Whales, not to mention seabirds such as Cory´s, Scopoli´s and Balearic Shearwaters, Great Skuas and European and Wilson’s Storm Petrels.

Other nature-watching in Europe calendars:

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Photo of birds on mudflats

Best places for wildlife in February

Annie H9 Comments

How do you find the best places to visit in February? I’ve trawled the internet and come to the following conclusion:

Start with the brochures/websites of companies offering nature-based trips. Even if you don’t want to go on an organised trip, these will at least give you ideas of the top places.

Disclaimer – I have no connections with these tour companies, and have not used their services. However, as their websites have provided me with useful information, the least I can do is mention them.

  1. Bulgaria
  2. England
  3. Estonia
  4. France
  5. Greece
  6. Iceland
  7. Italy
  8. Norway
  9. Poland
  10. Portugal
  11. Scotland
  12. Spain
  13. Sweden
  14. More nature-watching in Europe calendars

Bulgaria

The northernmost part of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast is famous for being the wintering ground for hundreds of thousands of wild geese, among which almost the whole population of the globally threatened Red-breasted Goose. February may be the best time to see them as the hunting season is over, and birds generally are more settled. Branta and Neophron both offer winter birding and winter photography tours.

Neophron – Wolves & Vultures of Bulgaria. The Eastern part of the Rhodope Mountains is locked between the valleys of the big rivers Arda and Maritsa in southern Bulgaria, near the border with Greece. This area hosts exceptional biodiversity – a result of the mixture of Mediterranean and continental climate. This is the realm of the wolf packs, as here is one of the densest populations of the Wolf in Bulgaria. The most spectacular birds of the region in winter are the vultures – Eurasian Griffon and Eurasian Black vultures.

Photo of landscape at the Somerset Levels

England

Naturetrek –  Somerset Levels – The magical movements and acrobatics of a million roosting Starlings. Bitterns. Huge congregations of wintering wildfowl, Lapwings and Golden Plovers. Birds of prey; amongst them the possibility of  Barn Owls, Marsh and Hen Harriers, Peregrine and for the very fortunate Merlin. These are just some of the possible highlights on offer at this special expanse of seasonally inundated lowlands that spans 650 square kilometres between the Quantock and Mendip Hills. This ancient habitat, which until recently had fallen victim to drainage and other modern farming demands, has now been restored to much of its former glory by the RSPB and other conservation bodies. It is a heartening modern-day conservation ‘success story’! The photo above shows old pollarded willows marking ancient field boundaries.

Naturetrek – The Forest of Dean covers an area of about 100 square kilometres and is England’s second-largest expanse of ancient woodland. From our comfortable hotel base in the heart of the forest, we will make daily walks exploring the surrounding trails during the day, and on one evening head out in search of Wild Boar! We will hope to see flocks of Siskin and Redpoll as well as Brambling and one of the stars of the forest – the Hawfinch. Mandarin Duck and Goosander should be present and we’ll also look for Dippers on the rivers.

Estonia

January-February – the best time to observe Steller’s Eider when flocks can reach 1000 or more. Saaremaa, the biggest island in Estonia, and the most north-eastern point of the mainland at Cape Põõsaspea are the best places to see them, along with thousands of long-tailed ducks (below), goldeneye, goosanders and white-tailed eagles. Can’t see any trips advertised, but Natourest are probably the best people to advise – they also provide self-guided tours which can be tailored to your requirements.

France

All the big estuaries of the north and west coast are worth visiting, as is the Rhône Delta on the Mediterranean coast.

Greece

Neophron – Dalmatian Pelican Photography – Nestled picturesquely between two separate mountain ranges, Lake Kerkini is one of the true jewels of European birding and the core of a nature reserve that is a relatively unexplored wonderland of beauty and biological diversity. Plenty of Great White Pelicans, Dalmatian Pelicans, Greater Flamingos, Pygmy Cormorants, herons, ducks and other waterbirds, riverside forests and fantastic panoramic view from the mountains of Belasitsa and Krousia give it a characteristic atmosphere. The combination of wildfowl, flora and fauna, good weather for a large part of the year and a virtually traffic-free track around the lake make it ideal for birding and bird photography.

Neophron – Winter Photography in Bulgaria and Greece – To take photos of Dalmatian Pelican we visit either the Bourgas wetlands in the South-eastern Bulgaria or Lake Kerkini in Northern Greece, depending on the winter conditions and your preferences, and for Eurasian Griffon Vultures we visit the Eastern Rhodope Mountains in Southern Bulgaria, where we manage several fixed hides.

Neophron – Winter Birding in Northern Greece. In winter the wetlands of Northern Greece hold huge numbers of birds that have escaped from the harsh weather in Central and Eastern Europe. Join us for a great birding experience with opportunities to see a variety of highly sought-after species! This tour starts from Thessaloniki on the Aegean Sea. If time allows, we visit Kalohori Lagoon in the vicinity of Thessaloniki, which is a very good site for waterfowl and shore-birds in winter. Then goes on to various lakes, the Dadia Forest National Park (for vultures especially), and the Evros Delta.

Iceland

Most tours to Iceland in winter concentrate on the Aurora Borealis – the Northern Lights, but this Naturetrek one crosses the country from south-west to north-east and includes the specialist winter birds too.

  • Pulsing green, blue & red glows & dancing patterns of the Northern Lights
  • Barrow’s Goldeneye, Snow Bunting & Ptarmigan
  • Stay in scenic Skútustaðir, under the flight path of a Gyrfalcon!
  • Glaucous & Iceland Gulls
  • Wintering sea-ducks near Husavik
  • Boiling mud pools, cinder cones, black lava fields & steaming fumeroles

The Travelling Naturalist provides a great winter break searching for birds and whales in south and west Iceland, at a time when they struggle to survive the harsh winter conditions and often congregate around the coast or other sheltered areas. Travelling as part of a small group in a specially prepared winterised 4-wheel drive vehicle allows us to reach some out-of-the-way places.

Some excellent advice about photographing the Northern Lights here

Italy

The Po Delta is good once the hunting season is over.

Norway

Skua Wild – Eider Special – In February, the King Eiders, one of the North Sea’s wonders, exhibit their colourful plumage over the icy, snow-covered waters. With it, the Steller’s Eider, the smallest of the Eider family, which is seriously threatened by a decline in its breeding range, primarily owing to climate change. These two unusual seabirds spend most of the winter in the Barents Sea, which stretches from northern Norway to Arctic Russia, but they begin their journey to the Siberian Peninsula in late March. Common Eiders and Long-tailed Ducks can be observed all year in the Varanger Peninsula, and they congregate with the two species listed above in February.

Poland

The Travelling Naturalist has a tour that focuses on the large, yet elusive mammals of the Biebrza Marshes and Bialowieza Forest. Studying tracks in the snow, we look for European bison, wild boar, elk, red deer and, if we are extremely lucky, some the country’s predators. We also search for the smaller, yet equally fascinating species such as otter, beaver, red squirrel (above), pine marten and up to ten species of bat.

Portugal

Classic places for winter birdwatching in Portugal include several wetlands in the Algarve easily accessible by public transport and from tourist resorts, and the Tejo estuary near Lisbon where a car is definitely needed.

Scotland

Oriole Birding – Islay is perhaps best known for its geese, and watching flocks of Barnacle and Greenland White-fronted Geese will certainly be a major focus as we search for rarer species that can include Cackling Goose or Snow Goose from across the Atlantic. In fact we can view geese from the sun room of our fantastic accommodation near Port Ellen in the south of the island, where we hire two self-catering houses for the tour and enjoy a house party experience which is perfectly suited to this holiday. Over the few days we will enjoy wintering divers and seaduck in secluded bays, both species of Eagle over the hills and such Hebridean specialities as Red-billed Chough, Twite, Black Guillemot, Hen Harrier, Merlin and of course Otter (below) around Islay’s varied coastline. 

Spain

Naturetrek – The Coto Doñana is regarded as one of the best birdwatching sites in Europe and rightly so. At all times of year this superb wilderness of wetlands and woodland is teeming with birds! On this short winter break we explore a great range of habitats and birds will range from the great numbers of wintering wildfowl and waders to a whole host of raptors including Spanish Imperial Eagle and Black-winged Kite. Bluethroat winter here and are another highlight, while mammals may even include the Iberian Lynx if we are lucky within the private reserve! With so much to offer a visit to Coto Doñana is a must!

Read my recommendations for getting the most out of the The Doñana National Park

Naturetrek – On this wildlife holiday we visit three of the Canary Islands – Tenerife, Gomera and Fuerteventura – in search of the five endemic birds, many of the 600+ species of endemic plants, and other wildlife. On Tenerife we explore the pine forest and high slopes of Teide National Park, then we cross by ferry to the tranquil island of Gomera, where we will spend a full day exploring the marvellous Garajonay National Park. We finish with three nights on Fuerteventura, flatter and more arid than the other islands, and home to a totally different flora and fauna, more African than European. The unusual, exotic and magnificent subtropical Canary Islands with their endemic flora and fauna, and spectacular volcanic scenery will make this a memorable and rewarding tour.

For the botanist visiting the Canary Islands, flowering depends more on rainfall than on date, but Febuary is considered a good month for botanising in Lanzarote.

My best February trip to Spain has to be the Laguna Gallocanta and its tens of thousands of Eurasian Cranes (below). Several companies offer trips to the area, usually combining it with looking for wallcreepers and other species in the mountains.

Also take a look at this round-up of the best of Spain in January – most of the information applies to February too.

Photo of a flock of cranes

Sweden

NatureTrek – Winter birdwatching in northern Scandinavia is very special. Though there are a limited number of species present, such beautiful species as Waxwing and Bullfinch look even more exquisite in the magical winter light of the far north and against a backdrop of snow, and keen photographers will be in their element. We’ll be based in the lowlands of Svartadalen in central Sweden and make daily excursions to look for finches, tits, Nutcracker and woodpeckers (including Grey-headed) in the forest and at bird feeding stations. We should be able to get very close to some of our target species on this trip; this, combined with a stunning quality of light, hearty local food, log fires and hospitable hosts, make this a very memorable holiday.

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photo of eagle owl in snow

Best places for wildlife in January

Annie H4 Comments

When I first travelled around Europe, in the days before the internet, finding out about the best places and when to visit relied mainly on word-of-mouth and a couple of ‘where-to-watch’ type books. My instinct was to head south, to Andalucia, but I discovered a lot of interesting places en route. Going north, to colder climes did not appeal, yet there is so much to see if only you know where to go.

Start with the brochures/websites of companies offering nature-based trips. Even if you don’t want to go on an organised trip, these will at least give you ideas of the top places.

  1. Bulgaria
  2. Estonia
  3. France
  4. Greece
  5. Spain
  6. Sweden
  7. Portugal
  8. Poland
  9. UK
  10. More nature-watching calendars
photo of a red-breasted goose
Red-breasted Goose

Bulgaria

NatureTrek – Winter Wildlife of Bulgaria & Romania – On the Trail of the Red-breasted Goose. A 9-day winter tour in search of geese, ducks and other wildlife, taking in the Black Sea coast in both Bulgaria and Romania as well as some forest and steppe habitats.

Neophron – The northernmost part of the Bulgarian Black Sea coast – Coastal Dobroudzha – is famous for being the wintering ground for hundreds of thousands of wild geese, among which almost the whole population of the globally threatened Red-breasted Goose. In the recent 20 years up to 62 000 Red-breasted Geese have been spending the winter in the area of the lakes of Durankulak and Shabla.

Neophron – Wolves & Vultures of Bulgaria. The Eastern part of the Rhodope Mountains is locked between the valleys of the big rivers Arda and Maritsa in southern Bulgaria, near the border with Greece. This area hosts exceptional biodiversity – a result of the mixture of Mediterranean and continental climate. This is the realm of the wolf packs, as here is one of the densest populations of the Wolf in Bulgaria. The most spectacular birds of the region in winter are the vultures – Eurasian Griffon and Eurasian Black vultures.

Estonia

January-February – the best time to observe Steller’s Eider when flocks can reach 1000 or more. Saaremaa, the biggest island in Estonia, and the most north-eastern point of the mainland at Cape Põõsaspea are the best places to see them, along with thousands of long-tailed ducks, goldeneye, goosanders and white-tailed eagles. Can’t see any trips advertised, but Natourest are probably the best people to advise.

France

All the big estuaries of the north and west coast are worth visiting, as is the Rhône Delta on the Mediterranean coast.

Photo of 4 white pelicans on water

Greece

Greentours – Lake Kerkini National Park is a winter bird-watching paradise and a haven for Pelicans, Waterfowl & Eagles! Let us take you on a week-long exploration of the Lake and the surrounding fields, forests, mountains and coastal lagoons to enjoy diverse and bountiful bird life!

Neophron – Dalmatian Pelican Photography – Nestled picturesquely between two separate mountain ranges, Lake Kerkini is one of the true jewels of European birding and the core of a nature reserve that is a relatively unexplored wonderland of beauty and biological diversity. Plenty of Great White Pelicans, Dalmatian Pelicans, Greater Flamingos, Pygmy Cormorants, herons, ducks and other waterbirds, riverside forests and fantastic panoramic view from the mountains of Belasitsa and Krousia give it a characteristic atmosphere. The combination of wildfowl, flora and fauna, good weather for a large part of the year and a virtually traffic-free track around the lake make it ideal for birding and bird photography.

Neophron – Winter Photography in Bulgaria and Greece – To take photos of Dalmatian Pelican we visit either the Bourgas wetlands in the South-eastern Bulgaria or Lake Kerkini in Northern Greece, depending on the winter conditions and your preferences, and for Eurasian Griffon Vultures we visit the Eastern Rhodope Mountains in Southern Bulgaria, where we manage several fixed hides.

Neophron – Winter Birding in Northern Greece. In winter the wetlands of Northern Greece hold huge numbers of birds that have escaped from the harsh weather in Central and Eastern Europe. Join us for a great birding experience with opportunities to see a variety of highly sought-after species! This tour starts from Thessaloniki on the Aegean Sea. If time allows, we visit Kalohori Lagoon in the vicinity of Thessaloniki, which is a very good site for waterfowl and shore-birds in winter.

Photo of the Lanzarote coast

Spain

See my round-up of the best of Spain in Winter

If it’s plants you’re after, then the Canary Islands can be good at this time of year. Flowering depends more on rainfall than on date, and earlier is often better, as I discovered when visiting Lanzarote.

Sweden

NatureTrek – Northern Lights & Winter Wildlife. A 6-day holiday, including one night of “glamping” in Swedish Lapland, in search of spectacular winter scenery, wildlife and the Northern Lights.

photo of a flock of waders

Portugal

Classic places for winter birdwatching in Portugal include several wetlands in the Algarve easily accessible by public transport and from tourist resorts, and the Tejo estuary near Lisbon where a car is definitely needed.

Poland

NatureTrek – Poland in Winter. A 7-day winter adventure to Poland in search of large mammals rare or even extinct in much of western Europe.

UK

Oriolebirding – An action-packed five days birding in Norfolk maximising the daylight hours in the field. We normally walk around 3-4 miles per day and it can be wet and muddy at this time of year. At least two evenings finish with a roost for raptors and wildfowl.

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Watching Wolves in Europe

Annie H9 Comments

Seeing wolves in the wild in Europe isn’t easy. Mostly, we have to make do with finding signs of their presence.

Wolves are now protected in most European countries.

Eurasian wolf packs and individuals have now been spotted as far west as the Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg, although their strongholds are still in the north and east. In total, the grey wolf population in Europe is estimated to be around 12,000 animals (excluding Belarus, Ukraine and Western Russia) in 28 countries. (Info from Rewilding Europe)

Top photo © Christels/Pixnio Creative Commons Licence, bottom photo Photo User:Mas3cf, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The Magura National Park in southern Poland was our best bet for seeing wolves. It was an informal trip, organised by someone who had been there several times, and had seen wolves a couple of times. But, as with all wildlife, there were no guarantees. It was a new place for us, so somewhere to be enjoyed, regardless.

We set up trail-cams. One for each member of the group, variously overlooking ponds and wallows – wild boar were another possibility here. We took long walks, looking at birds, plants, reptiles, and anything else. We had hot scorching days, we had terrific downpours.

One day, we (just the two of us) walked along the Poland/Slovakia border – once a no-man’s land with fences and border guards, now part of a long-distance trail through the forest. We were told to stick to the trail because there were probably still land-mines in some areas of the woods. But even so, we were still vulnerable. Bears and wolves were known to be in the area, even if they were infrequently encountered. What should we do if we did encounter them? Bears were usually solitary, or mother and cubs. Wolves were pack animals, and we could be surrounded without realising it. We kept going, sort of hoping not to see any.

What we did see from time to time, were large carnivore scats – piles of droppings that were too big and coarse for domestic dog, but too small for bear. And always these scats were surrounded by butterflies and other insects, mining the scats for minerals and salts they needed to survive and produce eggs. Perhaps not what you expect of beautiful insects, but part of their survival strategy anyway.

At the end of the week, the trail-cam results were disappointing. Between us, we had the odd wild boar, deer, owls, and a badger. At least the beavers living in the stream near the village obliged every evening.

Improving your chances

So, are there any way of improving your chances of seeing wolves? I’ve scoured the internet, and found the following ‘wolf-watching’ trips. Generally, you will be tracking wolves and learning about them and their interactions with other animals and the environment. Actually seeing a wolf, or even hearing one, is the icing on the cake. The exception is the Norway trip, where you are taken to meet a semi-wild pack in a very large enclosure.

I have not used any of these companies, and have no affiliation with them. This is simply a round-up of possibilities. The brief comments are taken from the company websites.

Bulgaria

It is now possible to organize unique tailor-made wolf tracking holidays in Bulgaria. These wolf tracking holidays are particularly rewarding during the winter months when the mountains are covered in snow, and the wolves and their ungulate prey can be tracked on foot, often with the aid of snowshoes.

Finland

Responsible Travel: With a 100% success rate in photographing wild brown bears & wolverines and over 80% chance of photographing wolves, this is the best tour for anyone wanting to see and photograph some of Europe’s largest and top predators.

Wildlifeworldwide: Join award winning wildlife photographer Bret Charman or Emma Healey on a five-night tour to northern Finland’s remote boreal forest in search of Europe’s large predators.

Wildlifeworldwide: You stay at two carefully selected locations equipped with purpose-built hides, where you keep a night vigil with a local guide to see brown bears, wolverines and wolves lured by carrion. In the day there are nature walks in the vicinity or optional trips further afield.

Finnature: In Finland, it is possible to see wild Wolves at special wildlife watching sites. At these sites, predators are attracted in front of viewing hides with food. Comfortable viewing hides are excellent places to watch Wolves safely. While Brown Bears and Wolverines are regular visitors at these sites, Wolves come around more rarely. This is because Wolves avoid conflicts with other carnivores, but also because they have larger territories. We at Finnature can help you to choose the best sites for Wolf watching. The best time for Wolf watching is from spring to autumn.

WildTaiga: Overnight stays in a photographic hide watching for carnivores

France

Undiscoveredmountains: Your high mountain guide and tracker, Bernard has been following the colonisation of the wolves in the French Alps for 20 years. With a wealth of local knowledge and access to a network of other local wolf enthusiasts, you won’t get a much better insight into these elusive animals. He will take you on a 4 day adventure following tracks and signs of wolf activity in the area and give you a rare insight in to the lives and behaviour of the other animals as they live under the threat of the wolf. This is a tracking holiday so we will be following signs of wolves and spending some time wildlife watching and interpreting what we see. However, it isn’t a wolf park and the territory of each pack or solitary wolf is enormous. So, please be aware that although you may be lucky and find signs straight away, you may not find anything and there is no guarantee you will see or hear a wolf.  

Germany

Biosphere Expeditions: wolf conservation expedition. Elaine gives an account of her experience here

Norway

Arctic holiday: This arctic animal-orientated journey packs in the mesmerising Northern Lights and a thrilling dog sledding ride. You will also visit the Polar Park and meet the local wildlife, like lynx and reindeer, and last but not least; Arctic Wolves! All this, while travelling through stunning arctic landscapes and enjoying local food along the way.

Polar Park is the world’s northernmost animal park & arctic wildlife centre. Animals you’ll see include wolves, lynx, moose, bears, wolverines, and muskox. They look especially great in their natural habitat with thick coats in winter! These predators live in wilderness enclosures with massive spaces to roam, so you may need all day to see all of them.

Photo User:Mas3cf, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Poland

Responsibletravel: Bieszczady belongs to the lowest mountain ranges of Carpathians (max. 1346 m/4416 feet). Scarcely populated and largely forested these mountains are now teeming with wildlife and have become the most important Polish refuge for Brown Bears, Wolves, Lynx and even Wild Cats. Moreover, there is a large herd of wild European Bison living here as well as plenty of Beavers and we will aim to see them all.

Naturetrek: This unique winter wildlife holiday focuses on the large mammals that are rare or extinct in western Europe, but still flourish in the remoter eastern corners of the continent. This holiday explores the meandering rivers of the Biebrza Marshes and the extensive forests of Bialowieza, including the primeval ‘Strict Reserve’. Within this snowy landscape live Elk (Moose), Red Deer, Beaver and a variety of birds, along with the impressive European Bison. There will also be the opportunity to listen for wolves howling in the forest.   

Portugal

European Safari Company: Faia Brava reserve is the first privately owned natural reserve in Portugal. It is bordered by the Côa River, and it is part of the Archeological Park of the Côa Valley, a UNESCO world heritage site. Oak forests and former cropland returning to nature are home to griffons, Egyptian and black vultures, golden and Bonelli’s eagles. In this experience you will learn how to track wolves, enjoy hikes around the private reserve of Faia Brava, and get to know the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Côa Valley. The accommodations are charming family-owned guesthouses in which you will feel like home sitting with a glass of some of Portugal’s finest wines and enjoying delicious local cuisine and a beautiful view.

Romania

Responsible Travel: A 6-day long private trip in Transylvania, with 4 days (morning and evening) focusing on wolf watching and tracking with a wildlife researcher. We’ll also take the opportunity to visit Bran Castle (aka Dracula’s Castle), enjoy the medieval town of Brasov with the most Eastern Gothic church, the Black Church, as well as the unforgettable sceneries of the Carpathian mountains in search of wolf tracks. Wolves are very shy animals due to the numerous persecutions from people, who learned the art of camouflage the hard way. This trip gives you the opportunity to look for wolves in their natural habitat, at safe distance to minimize the negative impact of our activities on these magnificent carnivores.

Spain

Naturetrek: This tour offers a chance to look for three of Europe’s most iconic mammals in contrasting habitats in northern Spain – the Bay of Biscay, Somiedo Natural Park in the western Cantabrian Mountains and the rolling hills of Zamora Province. Our holiday begins with a ferry trip to Santander across the Bay of Biscay, where we’ll watch for whales, dolphins and seabirds. On arrival in northern Spain we head to the heart of Somiedo in search of bears, before transferring to our second base in Zamora for two days of wolf-scanning. There’ll be some special birds too, including plenty of raptors, bustards and other mountain and steppe birds. We finish the tour with a little light culture in Santander.

Wild Wolf Experience: The Sierra de la Culebra hosts the highest density of wild wolves in Spain, but any sighting has to be regarded as a bonus when spending time in this area of wolf country. We do have a high success rate of sightings of these iconic predators, but at least be assured, if you haven’t seen them… they have seen you! Our Watching for Wolves tour operates throughout the year and is based in our home area of the Sierra de la Culebra in the far north west of Spain. The Sierra de la Culebra has recently been declared a Biosphere Reserve, which also includes the Duero Gorge.

Wildside Holidays website provides information about the Iberian Wolf and the Iberian Wolf Visitor Centre in La Garganta, as well as links to the Wild Wolf Experience mentioned above.

Visit Andalucia gives some hints about the best places to see wolves in the province

Sweden

Responsible Travel: Join a tracker for a day out in wolf territory. Tracking wolves is always exciting! During this trip we travel together by foot and by van in small groups in one of Sweden´s wolf territories. You will have good chances to track Wolves and feel their presence.

Responsible Travel: Sweden wildlife tours over a long weekend uncover an inordinate amount of animal life with moose, beavers, foxes and red squirrels all to be found if you know where to look. Following a guide on a four day Sweden wildlife tour lets you learn as you explore with bird calls deciphered and animal tracks uncovered, especially when tracking through the realm of the wolf.

Naturetrek: In the beautiful forests of central Sweden some of Europe’s larger mammal species, long since extinct in the British Isles, still outnumber the human population. On this short break we’ll search for Elk, Beaver and learn how to track Wolves amidst the scenic lakes and dense forests of Sweden’s Bergslagen region. Based in a lakeside guesthouse, inside a forest, we’ll make evening excursions to look for Elk and Beaver. We’ll track Wolves and our guide may even demonstrate how to attract their attention – by howling! 

Photo (c) Malene Thyssen, CC BY-SA 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/, via Wikimedia Commons

Wolf distribution and population in Europe 2019.

Wolves have now been found in low (often very low) density across much of Europe. The brown areas on the map show where they (or signs of them) are most frequent.

A larger version of the map can be seen here

© Sciencia58, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

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Bear-watching

A round-up of opportunities for watching and photographing bears in Europe. Updated 12/01/2023

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Bear-watching

Annie H9 Comments

Bear necessities

It was only a footprint, but it was BIG. I felt the hairs on the back of my neck rise, and the adrenalin starting to pump. The only animal I knew of that size was bear, and bears certainly lived in the area, though at low density and rarely seen.

A second look told me the prints were not that fresh – maybe during the night, or even yesterday. The bear probably was NOT still close by. But we couldn’t help looking around, just in case. And talking loudly – bears usually avoid humans, so best to let them know you are around.

Bob tried to convince me that it was some human pulling a joke, but I think he was actually quite worried about it. Was it coincidence that, while trying to photograph the footprint, I managed to knock the tripod over and damage the camera – beyond repair as it turned out.

We were hiking along a public trail through the Urho Kekkonen in the Saariselka Wilderness area of Finland – a few kilometres from the visitor centre at Tankavaara. The same few kilometres from the road where we were expecting to get the bus back to Saariselka. We arrived back at the bus stop with 45 minutes to spare.

We certainly felt vulnerable – out in the open on foot. I had previously met black bears in America, but then I had been on horseback. A horse can outrun a bear on flat ground, a human can’t outrun a bear on any terrain – the bear has four legs and a low centre of gravity.

But it would be nice to see a bear properly – the bear in the wild, the humans in a relaxed/safe situation. It had taken years to see just the footprint, so what is the best way to see the actual bear?

The most obvious answer is to join a bear-watching holiday. These come in several sizes. Note that I have no connection with any of these places/companies. This is just a round-up of bear-watching opportunities advertised on the internet.

Eco-volunteering –

You’ll learn about bears and their environment from people studying them, and also contribute to conservation in that country. Greece, Romania, Bulgaria and Finland are good destinations, and Responsible Travel a good company to use.  There is a lot of information about watching bears on their website. 

Romania – volunteering at a bear sanctuary (see here for an account of visiting a bear sanctuary in Romania)

Italy – Bear conservation tour

Bear-watching trips –

A specialist trip, (or part of a more general nature trip) usually of a few days, designed to put you (with your camera if desired) in a hide for one or more nights in the expectation of seeing a bear at dawn or dusk. Usually, you are taken by vehicle to within a short distance of the hide, then on foot for the last fifteen minutes or so. For overnight stays, the hide will have bunk beds, basic toilet facilities, and perhaps a means of heating food (but not proper cooking facilities). In the morning, or at a pre-arranged time, you are collected, walk back to the vehicle, and driven to your accommodation, or the nearest town, etc. While nothing is guaranteed, a few nights in a hide is probably the best opportunity to see a bear, or two or three, plus some other passing wildlife.

Downloadable leaflet – How to behave in bear country

Finland

Martinselkonen Nature Reserve, located in Eastern Finland, is one of the best places in Europe to photograph brown bears. This tranquil wilderness location is highly recommended – on occasion up to 20 bears and eight cubs have been seen in a single night! And there is plenty of other wildlife to be seen. The location is popular with holiday companies and is included in many of the following tours.

Bear Centre – 29 hides for watching and photography – April – September

Brown bears near Kuusamo – May – October – further north than the centres listed above.

Bears and other mammals – suggestions from Visit Finland

Finland guided tours

Bears, wolves and Wolverines – April – August, self-drive trip – On this unique wildlife adventure in the boreal forest of Finland you self-drive between lodges, allowing you to explore the wildlife of the taiga at your own pace. We have selected three lodges with a network of outstanding hides from which to watch and photograph such iconic inhabitants of the far north as brown bear, wolf, wolverine and white-tailed eagle. Throughout spring and summer these overnight hides offer mammal-watching which is unrivalled in northern Europe.

Wildlife Worldwide holidays will also organise a bespoke tour, and many other companies provide something similar, perhaps especially for photographers.  

Just brown bears – summer –  a long weekend Brown Bear-watching holiday amongst the fine taiga forests that straddle Finland’s border with Russia.

Brown bear explorer June & July – Long evenings and early dawns allow incomparable opportunities to watch and photograph the wildlife of the forest on this 8-day tour in Finland. Staying at purpose built hides, night vigils with a naturalist guide reward you with close-ups of brown bears, wolverines and occasionally wolves.

Brown bears in Finland – May-August – An ideal short-haul break to a wonderful location for sighting brown bears in the Finnish wilderness.

Brown bear and elk adventure – May – September

Bear photography – June – Join wildlife photographer Tom Mason on a midsummer trip to photograph brown bears and wolverines, with four nights in specialist hides in the taiga forest of Finland.

Sweden

Bear watching in Sweden – A 4-day holiday to an idyllic, rolling land of forests and lakes where we will look for Brown Bears from a luxurious purpose-built hide, and enjoy the natural history, beauty and extraordinary tranquillity of a magical place just five hours away

South-eastern Europe

Bulgaria – Bears and wolves

Romania – Bear-watching and Transylvanian castles – May – September

Greece

Brown bear tracking in the northern Pindos – May – October – Track wild bears in a pristine mountainous corner of Greece: Northern Pindos. Back to nature with the friendly guides of wildlife charity CALLISTO to hear about bear research methods, walk in the wilderness, and witness traces of wild bears. Note – this is basically the same as the bear conservation tour listed under eco-volunteering, but with a different company.

Spain

Watching bears in northern Spain

A year in the life of a bear

March-April: bears emerge from hibernation, including cubs taking their first look at the outside world. All they want to do in spring is eat, to rebuild the reserves lost through the long winter sleep.

May to July: mating season, when males persistently follow females everywhere.

August-October: it is eating season again, as bears fatten up in preparation for hibernation.

More information about bears on the Euronatur website

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More mammal-watching ideas

Watching Wolves in Europe

A selection of organised trips (eco-volunteering, guided vacations and single day/night opportunities) for watching wolves in Europe.

The naturalist in France in winter

France isn’t an obvious place for nature-watching in winter, but there are plenty of birds, and even some mammals to see. Here are some suggestions of where to find them.